How to Build a C&C Guinea Pig Cage
84
Cubes and Coroplast?
When choosing a new home for your guinea pig, most people will turn towards a pet store. Pet store cages are nice, but it will be very hard if not impossible to find a cage that is large enough for your piggy. Though pet stores do sell large-sized cages, these will usually be the absolute minimum size for your guinea pig, if not too small. One thing that is always true, they will be expensive.
There is a different way to ensure that your guinea pig will be comfortable and safe, as well as save a few bucks. The solution: cubes and coroplast, otherwise known as a C&C cage. This article includes step-by-step instructions on how to build a C&C cage, as well as other information about these types of cages.
Benefits to C&C cages
There are many benefits to making a C&C cage as opposed to buying a cage from a pet store. For starters, you will save money. Spending more money at a pet store will get you a cage that is about half of the size of your smallest C&C cage. If you use fleece bedding in your C&C cage, you will save even more money.
Using a C&C cage will also help to ensure that your pigs are healthy and happy. They will not be confined to a small living area. If you have a cage mate for your guinea, which you should have if you don't, there is more room for your piggies to have alone time when they need it.
Another benefit to a C&C cage is all of the possibilities you have to create unique and exciting cages! You can create multilevel cages, L-shaped cages, cages with tops, cages with cube stands. The possibilities are endless.
Also, you will not be left with a bunch of leftover unusable pieces. There are many things you can use your leftover coroplast and cubes for. In my cage, I made a kitchen area, a hay rack, and a hidey house out of coroplast. I used leftover grids to hold bunk beds by bending them in half and attaching them to the sides of the cage with zip ties. There are many uses, so your money will not go to waste.
C&C cages are also very easy to clean. Being wide and open like my cage is, it is very easy to empty it out and switch the fleece bedding. There is no crouching to reach into the doorway of the cage or disassembling.
Now that you know some benefits to a C&C cage, lets start to learn how you can build one for yourself.
Materials
The following materials will be needed in order to build a C&C cage:
- A sheet of coroplast. This is a corrugated sheet of plastic that is commonly used to make signs. It is similar to cardboard, but will be waterproof. Coroplast is great for guinea pig cages because once scored it can be bent at a 90 degree angle, which is perfect for the corners of a cage. It also comes in many different colors. You can find coroplast by calling your local sign shop, and they will sell you a large sheet for a range of prices.
- At least one box of grid cube squares. These can be found at stores such as Walmart or Target. You can also buy them online. The squares are connected with black plastic connectors to form cube-shaped storage containers, but they work great for the perimeter of a guinea pig cage. Each box comes with black plastic connectors, which some people use, but I chose not to. (NOTE: when purchasing grid cube squares, check to make sure that each square has at least 9 holes! Some squares have larger holes, which guineas cage get stuck in.)
- A pack of medium to large zip ties. Buy a lot, you'll use them more often than you think.
- A box cutter
- Duct tape
- Scissors
- A large ruler or measuring tape
- A pencil
Now that you have everything, lets get started.
 | Amazon Price: $23.65 List Price: $32.00 |
 | You can never have enough zip ties, and you can't beat this price! Amazon Price: $0.01 List Price: $4.99 |
Measure it out
First, you need to figure out how big your C&C cage will be. 2 x 3 cubes is the smallest size most people go for one guinea pig. I have a 2 x4 cage for my two boars, and that is the size shown in the demonstration. The size of the cubes is slightly larger than a foot, so when I say I have a 2x4 cage, I'm referring to the number of cubes, not the actual size in feet and inches.
Next, you will need to decide how tall you want your sides to be. My cage has sides that are about 6 inches tall.
Next, measure out a rectangle that will be the bottom of the cage. I did this by laying 8 cubes side by side (2 rows of 4) and measuring the length and width. The size of the base will vary according to how large you want your cage to be, so this is a very important step.
After you have the base of your cage measured and drawn, measure out the distance from each side (in my case, it was 6 inches).
The Crucial Cut!
This next step is where the perforation of the coroplast is most important. Coroplast, like cardboard, has two layers and pockets of air in between the layers. If you cut only through the top layer, the coroplast is able to bend at almost a 90 degree angle. This is perfect for having sealed corners.
The diagram on the right shows where to cut halfway through and where to cut all the way through the coroplast. Click to zoom in on the picture for a closer look.
Time to go 3-dimensional
Once you have your coroplast cut and ready to bend, you can start to assemble the base.
Fold the edges up to create sides, one at a time. The coroplast will bend comfortably in one direction. Once you are at the corner, bend your longer side around to form a 90 degree angle, and overlap the end to lay against the adjacent side. Tape the two pieces together.
Having one side bendable and the other cut allows you to form a closed corner, which comes in handy when people use bedding rather than fleece. It also helps create a stronger corner that will last longer.
When you are finished you should have a shallow, rectangular shaped box with no top. You are now halfway done with your piggy's new paradise!
Connecting the Grids
Now that your coroplast base is finished, you can start to assemble the sides that will go around the perimeter of your cage.
Using the zip ties, connect your grids on the top, bottom, and center. For my 2x4 cage, I connected each side separate to lay flat. I had two sides that were 4 grids connected across, and two that were 2 grids connected across. The image on the right shows 3 of my grid squares connected to create part of a side.
Clip the long ends of the zip ties off with a pair of scissors.
Assemble your sides separately. You can assemble them all at once to create a rectangle when stood up on end, but if your measurements were a bit off on the coroplast, you might have to separate the sides to widen the perimeter.
Combining the cube squares with the coroplast
You are almost done! All that is left is attaching the sides of the grid squares to one another to form a rectangular shape that will fit right outside of the coroplast.
One at a time, loosely combine the edges of two sides of cube grids together using zip ties at each corner. Put a zip tie in on the top, in the center, and on the bottom. Be careful not to make one corner too tight, as you might end up not being able to connect the sides on the opposite end of the cage.
Voila! You're done!
Once you assemble the outer perimeter of the cage with your cube grid square sides, you can step back and look at your masterpiece. Your piggy will be so thrilled to have so much room to run around, and you will be so thrilled to see how much money you save!
Your cavy never seemed so happy!
vote upvote downshareprintflag
- Useful (17)
- Funny (5)
- Awesome (12)
- Beautiful (5)
- Interesting (2)
CommentsLoading...
Hey I have asked many but only one has replied. I have a plastic cage and metal cage... I cant have a cc cage coz my guineas have to stay outsides... How do you keep your fleece from just getting bunched up??
ok I've sent you a response, check your email when you get a chance :)
How do you build a top for the C&C cage? please e-mail me at alipoohgirl@aol.com
Check out your local sign shops in your area, that's where most people get their coroplast from. They should be able to sell you a basic large sheet for around $30. Ask printing businesses too, as there's a good chance they work together with sign businesses.
If you still can't find any, ask a local business near by if they ever buy signs for things, and if they do where they buy it from. A lot of places like schools, churches, and small businesses use coroplast in the signs they buy.
On online i cant find corrugated plastic, i have been able to find the right size and everything but it only comes in packets of 15 sheets and is like 100 dollars? any sugestions? please..
For food I usually get cavy cuisine, you can find it at a petsmart/petco. It isn't the cheapest but it isn't filled with ingredients that are unhealthy for the pigs, and my piggies seem to enjoy it. For hay I have lasted a couple years from a half bale that was given to me by a trusted timothy hay farmer for free.I'm so sad it's gone and I'll have to start buying it now :( so I actually haven't shopped around for hay but I have heard a lot of people talk about a site online called kleenmamas hayloft that is trusted and has good deals. oxbow sells hay as well. Most people feed timothy hay to their pigs. Hope this helps and thank you so much for the good review!
For a tip for the hay I would suggest buying a small cat litter box to turn into a "hay bin", as a lot of people claim to have issues with hay sticking to the fleece (I have yet to have this problem, might be because I use a hay bin though I suppose ha). Fill the bottom of the bin with an inch of yesterday's news so that they can't push it all around the cage.
I found this article very helpful! I actually printed it out and will use it as a guide for the building of my own C&C Cage, if that's not any sort of infringement. ;) I have a question that's pretty off topic, but you seem knowledgeable, so I'm assuming it's alright to ask. Do you have a preference of food for your pigs (including hay, I suppose)? I'm hoping to get a couple guinea pigs (second-time owner) int the next few days, or week or so, and I want to make sure I do even better than the first time I owned one. Any tips or anything you have to add would be very helpful.
Thank you so much for your time and amazing article!
Hi Sally, I just measured my grids with a tape measure, and they're about 14" x 14"
You mention 9x9 grid, but what is the total size of the grid. Is it a 12inch square grid that has 9 holes by 9 holes. Or is it larger/smaller than 12 inches?
Thanks
Some people build a "bottom" to their grids so that it isn't just a loose fencing that goes around the edges, but you'll see that if you get the sizing right it's actually a very snug fit, especially if you use zip ties on the grids and pull them tight. (I actually struggled to get my grids around the coroplast base the first time I made my cage) The sturdier you want it the more zip ties you use.
Coroplast can get rather pricey, I remember my piece, which was just a standard piece they normally cut down into signs and what not, was around $30. I know someone who owns a sign shop now though so when I replace my old cage with fresh coroplast I'll actually probably be able to get it for free. If you have any chance at knowing someone who'd have it that'd be your best bet. Either way though, coroplast and grids end up being cheaper than a cage at a pet supply store, a cage there might only be $50 but it'll also be a fraction of the size and definitely way too small for even just one guinea pig.
Hope this helped and good luck with your cage!
Hi i am getting a guinea pig soon and am planning to make a c&c cage that'll be either 2x4 or 3x4 . But im wondering, how much does it cost for a pretty good size piece of Coroplast? and what ways can i sort of attach the grids to the coroplast so its more... sturdy, and together?
Hi Abbey, sorry that I haven't responded I must have missed the email. Yes you can make C&C cages for rabbits, but they are called nic cube cages. They are basically the same thing, but the bottom is made differently (instead of using coroplast rabbit owners make bottoms out of wood and cover it with linoleum). I don't see why coroplast couldn't be used though, it's waterproof after all, and sturdy.
I would just make sure that you make your base a little wider on all edges so that the cubes would actually sit inside the base instead of outside (I fear that a rabbit would go CRAZY chewing coroplast). Also, I would find a way to attach the cubes to the coroplast so that the rabbit can't knock it down.
There are a lot of forums and articles out there (youtube videos too) describing how to make a nic cube cage specifically for a rabbit, there are certain requirements specifically for rabbits, like it has to be tall enough that they can stand on their hind legs comfortably and it needs to be completely enclosed so they can't jump out. Check out some forums, I was going to get a rabbit before so I did all sorts of research :)
Thank you for your question and I hope I helped!
Hi I'm just about to make this C&C cage its a brilliant idea can you make them for rabbits or is it just guinea pigs....
I have an article specifically for using fleece in your guinea pig cage. It's http://hubpages.com/hub/fleeceforbedding , so definitely check it out, and it should answer any questionsi you have!
As for where they go to the bathroom, unfortunately guinea pigs go anywhere and everywhere for the most part. Some owners have been able to "potty train" their pigs, but this is really a 50/50 chance, and it's more or less finding out where they do their business, and putting a litter box there. Mine like to go in corners and up against edges of things for the most part, and they also go a lot in the areas where they eat. I like to make a "kitchen" section of my cage, that has recycled paper cat litter called "yesterdays news" in it, so most of their business is left there.
Let me know if you need anything else! : )
How do I use fleece? Where can I get it from?
Where do they go to the bathroom? :)
Thank you both for the extra tips! Yes the size of the grid is extremely important and many people overlook this detail! If you find difficulty buying 9 x 9 grids in stores, they are extremely easy to find online, and sites like Amazon.com often offer "free shipping on purchases of "x" amount or more" so be sure to look for that!
Also great tip with the double sided tape!
One VERY IMPORTANT SAFETY NOTE:
In the materials section, it was very rightly mentioned that grids must be at least 9x9 squares. (This means 1.5-inches). In most areas, Target no longer sells shelving with 9x9 grids. These sets have been redesigned to use a combination of 5x5 and 8x8 grids. The 5x5 are too large to hold your pigs and the 8x8 pose a STRANGULATION DANGER. Guinea pig rescue organizations have reported a few strangulation deaths due to the use of 8x8 grids. So make absolutely sure you are getting 9x9 grids if you purchase at Target.
GOOD JOB on getting the word out. We believe FAR too many pigs are stuck in cages that are way to small for them to live happy, healthy lives. (We own 5 pigs right now)
Just a couple tips:
When calling sign shops, if you know the exact coroplast size you need, ask them to quote that as well as a full sheet. Some shops will do the work to cut it to size AND charge less because you're buying a smaller piece. Call several in your area because they differ widely on this.
Also, for a cleaner look, try double-back tape for securing corners - but make sure you have things lined up before you stick things together. Double-side tape is HARD to remove.
Thank you! That's great! Your guinea pig(s) will be so happy : ) I have a page all about fleece and how to prepare it, so if you haven't yet be sure to check it out. Good luck!
Great hub! I'm going to be expanding my guinea pig cage soon with C&C, and hopefully switching to fleece!
Thank you for your feedback :)
A very easy to follow hub.
thank you for sharing
Take care
Eiddwen.
Thank you so much! I'm always glad to help. If you're referring to the bedding, it is a cat litter called "yesterdays news". It's made from recycled paper, so it isn't harmful to the pigs. I have had better luck finding it at petsmart than petco usually, and I've actually seen it at a target before. It's pricier than I would like it to be ($12-15), but with two boars I only have to replace it about once every other month or so, and I think it's benefits trump its price easily. Not to mention how much money I'm saving using fleece!
Regular gp bedding can be kicked up easily, what I like about this is that it's absorbant but heavy so they don't make a mess.
I'm going to be getting 2 babies in a few weeks and i am getting my cage together. Just curious what you have down in the box that you hay and food is in. I have really found you pages helpful and can't wait to try the fleece bedding.
totally makes sense--thanks!!
oh thank you haha, I considered putting up a tutorial, I even took photos but I just hadn't gotten to it. In a nutshell, I sewed a rectangular pillow, about a foot long and 6 " wide. You take a grid square, bend it in half (a couple grids will snap at the bend, this is normal) and using your zip ties, zip the very top to the top of your cage grid. If you imagine it, the bent grid is an L shape, with the edge that juts out facing toward the center of the cage.
I made the pillows so that the bottom has an extra layer that has an opening on one long end, so that it "slips" onto the bottom half of your L shaped grid. This way it wont slip off when they jump up and down.
My piggies use it for weeks, and then it's as if they completely forget how to use it and they go months without using it, and then realize "oh yeah, there's a bed up here!" and use it again! Silly pigs, it literally took them months to learn how to use them, I had to lure Apollo up with a carrot and then they both figured it out after that.
Did this make any sense at all? It was kind of wordy...haha, if you didn't understand it and want a better explanation I'd be happy to email you a more in-depth description with illustrations. Eventually I'll make a hub about it, maybe I'll try to make on this week now that I know someone out there's interested!
I can't find your instructions on how to make those AWESOME bunk beds!!! Any tips?
Great plan, it's fun to see how they interact too, I think I enjoy that most out of anything. They're constantly talking to each other and cuddling and annoying one another :P Mine were adopted from a rescue and they were cagemates since birth so they get along great for boars. If you haven't considered rescues or adopting it's a good idea, they'll be handled more and cared for better. Its also easy to find cagemates so you don't have to go through the stress of introducing one to another, which is a timely process.
Happy piggyin'!
Thank you SO MUCH for the reply. I will get 2. :)
a 2x3 is generally meant for 1 pig, but pigs always do better in pairs. It's more important for 2 males to have their space though, so I think that 2 females would be okay. I'm sure there are a lot of people who would say that's too small, but if I were you I'd either make sure I get two females, or get 1 and give it LOTS of attention, because you will need to replace that friend they'll be missing when they're alone. Only get 1 if you don't think you'll have the time to give it that it deserves.
Thank you for your feedback and good luck with your pig(s)! :D
Love the cage! I followed your instructions and built a 2x3 one. My question...can I put 2 pigs in that or should I just get one?
Thank you for the feedback : )
I agree, I had never owned a c&c cage before, and now that I do I can't imagine ever going back. They're always running laps and sleeping in all different parts of the cage, I think they really love it. If you haven't used fleece already, you should consider it as well, in my experience it's only made it even better, and it's worth giving a shot.
Thanks again!
Thank you very much for your instructions. They were very helpful. Our 3 X 2 cage came out great. I plan to make a 2nd floor with some of the ideas from the pictures. They love the space!
You can buy extra cage squares to build a "roof" that you hinges on one side and is held closed with binder clips on the other. If you have a dog that seems like it would stomp through that as well, it might be a good idea to raise the cage off the ground. Some people use leftover cage squares to build a stand for the cage that will raise it about a foot off the ground. There are instructions all over on guineapigcages.com, great site for any questions.
They shouldn't climb out. One thing that I think is great about piggies is that they really have no desire to escape generally. Mine actually prefer to be in their cage, they become nervous wrecks when they are out for floor time for too long :P If you find that your pig is trying to escape, a roof is a good idea. You can also find out where or how they are getting out and put one square over that section so they cant, but I doubt they will find a way out easily.
Great questions and thank you for your interest! Good luck with your cage!
can dogs get into c&c cages? will they climb out?
If your pig is a baby a good idea would be to babyproof the cage, or wait until its older to move it to the C&C cage.
for babyproofing: sometimes people double up the grids, or use cardboard or more coroplast to cover up the holes. I have even seen people use fabric on the outside pinned up with safety pins/binder clips so that their piggies can't escape.
I'm not sure if this link will work but this is a link to a photo gallery from a guinea pig forum of babyproofed cages that might help.http://www.guineapigcages.com/photos/showgallery.p
guineapigcages.com is a great forum to join if you are just starting out or looking for tips for guinea pig care. I am also a member under the same username :D
hope this helps!
Would a baby piggie be able to get out of the C&C cage?
hey when i go to the store for the coroplast how big do i ask for i didnt see it in the explanation:)
thank you, I tried very hard haha
I love it thank u so much you all are the best! :-)
very good. steps were easy to follow. :) thanks!
wymyczak66 Hub Author 2 months ago
@Zee, If there is room, take a sturdy flat material (cardboard, coroplast, etc) and cut it into a piece that will fit into the bottom of your cage, with just a tad bit of room on each edge.
Take your fleece, make sure that you have a piece that isn't too large for your cage, it should only be slightly larger than the bottom of the cage. Lay the fleece over your piece of sturdy flat material (be sure to put a couple layers of towel in between the fleece and the sturdy material, and tuck the excess around the edge and underneath it (imagine like putting a sheet on a mattress). Take binder clips of appropriate size, and clip the fleece & towels to the sturdy flat material around the edge where you'd like.
What you should end up with is a flat square or rectangle-shaped piece covered on one side completely with fleece with layers of absorbent towels sandwiched in between. You can then simply place that piece into the bottom of the cage, and you'll have nice flat fleece that can't be pulled up and won't bunch.
Let me know if this is what you were trying to achieve or if this helps, if I didn't understand your question correctly please feel free to email me at wymyczak66@yahoo.com with additional questions. :)